Hualtuco

Hualtuco

Sunday, October 5, 2014

Sand Dunes, Forests and Coastal Lakes

5th October 2014

After a good nights sleep, and another American breakfast (not a great fan I must say), we depart from Coos Bay at just after 9am. Our destination today is Astoria, right up on the Oregon / Washington State border.

First up we need some fuel, and to clean the windscreen. The salt mist that is pervasive everywhere slowly builds up a layer on the screen making visibility steadily worse. A wash every couple of hours seems necessary. Anyway, I drove into a gas station, with my newly acquired skills on how to purchase petrol in USA, and was quickly confronted by an attendant. I explained I had a foreign credit card which wouldn't work in his pump, and he promptly proved me wrong by swiping my card, and explaining that Oregon is one of the only 2 states in USA where you are not allowed to fill your own tank. So he filled it for me, and I was on my way.

Leaving town travelling North, I noticed some huge fishing boats in Coos Bay, and a tuna fish processing facility, so it looks like they have a serious fishery here as well add at Charlestown. More wood chip loaders and rail sidings for sawn timber were spread along the riverside.

We crossed an enormous bridge to the North side of the bay ( but could get angle other than this to capture it)



The Bay is a huge expanse of water also crossed by a railway bride which was open as we passed

The terrain today is quite different from what we have experienced so far. We are now into sandy shorelines, with extensive dune systems, punctuated by huge basalt outcrops that form the headlands in between, and are general heavily forested with pines. Big sandy beaches are common. Our next stop is Winchester Bay.


As we drive in off the highway the first thing we see is "the triangle", a little bit of ocean that has been isolated, by breakwaters , for growing oysters and mussels. Alongside is the entrance to the Umpqua River, which leads into Salmon Harbour.



The Old Lighthouse at Winchester Bay


As we followed the road around salmon harbour, there were fishermen everywhere trying their luck

Back on the road we headed north and were distracted by a sign that led to a sand dune recreation area. It turned out to be an extensive area where you could take you quad bike, or rent ATV's (big quad bikes) and tear around the dunes as much as you like.


Sand Dune recreation area

Realising this wasn't for us we headed back to the highway, and drove on through Reeds Port and Gardiner, Florence, but had too stop at the next town Waldport, to get a few photos.



                                                   The keen fishermen were all out 

The scenery along the way alternated between a number a very busy fishing village, and huge expanses of beach, interspersed with mountainous headlands, some needing tunnels to get through.


                                                   Beaches and dunes north of  Waldport



                                    At the same vista point we saw a biplane heading up the coast

Not much further on is a very touristy spot promising the biggest sea lion cave in the World, and we hope, good rest rooms !



The rest rooms were great, but we are over sea lions !


There was also a great view north to the Heceta Lighthouse 

We stopped briefly at Seal Rock for the usually beautiful seascape, and a chance to stretch our legs.


Looking North


Looking South

The next main town was Newport, but it is so busy on a Sunday in many of these places, especially with the exceptionally warm weather, so we continue on to find somewhere more relaxing to have lunch.

Our next stop was for lunch. at Otter Rock Headland. There was a nice picnic area, and we had last nights pizza to finish. There was a "truck" that served coffee, so all was good.


Carole getting a Cappucino


                                                             The beach here was stunning


It gets very windy here and the garbage bin lids are weighted down

Carole spotted a whale out off the headland, and we watched it for a short while, before heading off again.

The next stop was not far way, Depoe Bay, and instinctively I had to turn off down to the boat harbour as it looked like an interesting place. We discovered, that the area between Otter Rock and Depoe bay is prime whale watching country.


Depoe bay is a tiny harbour with a healthy charter fishing business



  A charter had just come in and a team of professional filleters will fillet and vacuum pack you catch for a modest charge


                                 I don't recognise any of these but they had lots more


                                                   This one's not particularly attractive

Lincoln City was next, a big place, and very busy on the weekend with some kind of festival on, and kites flying in the first substantial breeze we have seen on the coast.


Our last stop before Astoria, was the Port of Garibaldi. Yet another substantial fishing village , which the name suggests might have been started by Italians. 







They obviously get through a few oysters, there was a mountain of these bags of shells


They must catch a lot of fish, or the fishermen are pretty lazy !

From here we continued on to our motel in Astoria, which is on the southern side of the Columbia River. We are overwhelmed at the size of the harbour, and find out it is a major seaport, with regular visits from cruise ships, and a number of large freighters are anchored in the harbour. A huge bridge spans the river. It is a bit after 5pm when we arrive, so we settle in and look for somewhere for dinner.

A short walk from our motel, there is an old cannery wharf that has been converted into an ale house / restaurant, sounds perfect.

It is a short walk along the waterfront, and on the way we pass a public fish cleaning facility, it is under cover, and have a look inside. NSW fisheries take note !


The sun is setting and can see the sun setting over the bridge that crosses the harbour. I only have a point and shoot camera with me but I think this picture captures it.



We are soon at the Rogues Alehouse and settle in for an average meal and excellent beer.




As we go to bed we are being serenaded by a colony of sea lions that live out around the piers near the hotel. Hopefully they will get sore throats soon.











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